Imagine embarking on an adventure through the mesmerizing landscapes of the W and O treks in Torres del Paine National Park, surrounded by nature’s grandeur, and you’re dreaming the same thing as many other outdoor enthusiasts. But before you get lost in daydreams of this magnificent journey, there’s one challenge you need to overcome: booking accommodation.

In this article, I’ll be shedding some light on the intricate process of securing a place to rest your weary feet along these treks. Brace yourself, for it’s no easy task. The web of refugios and campsites that dot the routes may open up the wilderness of Patagonia’s most popular park in theory, but navigating the booking system is a daunting feat.

Accommodation along the W and O treks

Dotting these two treks is a network of refugios, which generally consist of a main building in which dorms and private rooms are located, and campsites in the grounds. You can bring your own equipment if camping or rent some of the refugio’s own stuff, and some of the dorm beds don’t come with sheets so you’ll need a sleeping bag for that too.

The first thing to be said about booking accommodation in the refugios is that it is frustrating. Expect it to take a lot of time and a lot of tabs. The reasons behind this are a combination of their popularity (often being booked out months in advance) and a badly designed booking system. 

There are two companies running refugios along different parts of the trails: refugios in the western side of the two are operated by Vertice, while those in the east are operated by Fantastico Sur. There are also a few campsites that are owned by the national park itself, but their distance and locations means that Vertice and Fantastico Sur have a stranglehold on accommodation along the circuits. 

For a time, there was a website that simplified the process called Torres Hike, which would show availability in both companies’ refugios and allow you to make your bookings in one place. Unfortunately, at the time of writing they only display the following message: “reservations are suspended due to problems with one of our providers”. It’s worth checking them in case the system ever recovers, but for the time being, they’re a no-go.

On Vertice’s website, you’ll click on “reservations”, be taken to another tab, select “other” for your nationality and select which trek you’re doing. You’ll then be shown a map of Vertice’s refugios and a list of route options. Then you’ll go to select your dates, and the complications begin here. As the calendar does not have any colour coding for when there is availability, you have to keep searching for different dates until you find one which has availability. And believe me, if you visit during the high season, you’ll be searching a lot of times. The system won’t automatically make your check-out date the following day, so you’ll have to change this too. If you click on the dropdown arrow under “accommodation type” and it doesn’t work, they’re fully booked. At every step of the way you’ll see a buffer sign coming up on your screen, and sometimes it can be there for a while. The system’s saving grace is that if you’re booking multiple refugios, it will only show you availability in one place if there’s availability in the other the following night.

If you found Vertice frustrating, you’ll want a good stiff drink to hand when trying to book with Fantastico Sur.

First, you’ll have to choose whether you want to look into booking camping or a room. If you just want to stay at a particular location and don’t mind the room type too much, you’re going to have to open a large number of tabs. Next, you’ll see a popup ad for their premium campsites whose cross has to be clicked twice. Once it’s buggered off, you’ll be able to select your dates. Like Vertice, calendars aren’t colour coded, so you’ll have to keep trying until you find a date with availability. 

Once you hit “book”, a separate window will appear, under which will be listed different “sectors”. Don’t worry, this is just what they call their refugios and campsites. If you click on “show map” it will cover your whole screen, so print off a copy to make things easier or bring it up on another device. Unlike Vertice, if one refugio has availability but the next one along doesn’t, it will still leave you guessing until you find a pair of refugios that have availability. It also won’t automatically change your dates, so you’ll have to do that too. All the while, you’ll be graced by your old friend the buffer sign.

Once you’ve found a pair of dates that work, you’ll have to make sure those correspond to the dates you’ve booked with Vertice. And all the while, pray that none of the refugios get booked out midway through the process – it can happen, and will send you back to square one.

Both companies also have offices in Puerto Natales from which you can ask about availability and make reservations, which might be an option if you’re in Patagonia for a while. However, this definitely won’t be easy since you’ll then have to dart between each company’s office, and its last-minute nature opens up the risk that every night of your time in the area will be fully booked.

Other accommodation options in Torres del Paine

On Booking.com, there are a few different options. Campsites at Laguna Azul Camping offer spectacular views of the towers across the lake, and this is the site where the Scottish writer Lady Florence Dixie, the first “tourist” to visit the park, clapped eyes on the towers. Goiien House offers the cheapest non-camping accommodation, with dorms that come with bedding, free Wifi and free breakfast. It’s located a two minute drive away from the Amarga entrance, and is also near to the best areas to spot pumas.

If you’ve got more money, there are also a few different upmarket options within the park. EcoCamp Patagonia, located near the Base Torres trailhead, is well-known for its dome tents and tasteful decor. Hotel Lago Grey and Explora Torres del Paine, two five-star hotels, are also on here, and they’ll certainly have you living in the lap of luxury if you can afford them! 

There are no Airbnbs in the park itself, though there are a few farm stays in the hills outside the park.

Lastly, I’ve heard tell that if you have a campervan you can stay at the Amarga entrance for free, provided you’re respectful of the rangers who live here.