Many people would be surprised to find out that chameleons can be found along Andalucia’s coast. The Mediterranean chameleon lives all around the sea that its name bears, with a few small populations on the European side – it is thought that it was introduced here by the Moors. Even fewer know that the best place to find them in the wild is one hour outside the old city of Cadiz.

Across the bay is the beach town of Rota, which at first glance looks like a typical Costa del Sol town on the wrong side of the Straits. On the north side, however, is a habitat of bushes and small trees keeping the dunes intact and where the colour-changers are to be found.

Jardin Botanico Celestino Mutis is the best place to search for chameleons.

It’s free to enter and tiny, but only open from 2-6PM. Chameleons are more active in the evening, but if this isn’t possible (for example, getting back to Cadiz on time) searching the shade is the best tactic in the afternoon. The garden also has a protective cage for them to breed in, with bars big enough to go in and out of at any time. Be sure to search every bush and tree carefully: being able to change colour, move slowly and sway with the wind makes them difficult to spot. In the past, visitors reported staff pointing them to the chameleons straight after being asked where they were, but unfortunately there was no-one on duty when I went. Since they can potentially make your life a hundred times easier, it may be worthwhile calling the Gardens in advance to ask if anyone will be around when you are and for advice on finding chameleons.

Where to search for chameleons if the Jardin fails

On the other side of the fence and between the gardens and the sea is a series of boardwalks running through the pine forest that you might have already passed through if you walked up from the ferry terminal. This is the next best place to look if you were unsuccessful in the gardens, but it is a much larger area to search. To make things more efficient, focus on the bushes since chances are that’s where they will be. It was by walking slowly along the boardwalk and inspecting every bush that I was able to find one resting on a branch. This was a pretty lucky find, given that it was sat out in the sunlight and hunching its back. Additionally, being a much brighter shade of green than the surrounding leaves made it a tonne more conspicuous than it had probably intended. As soon as I approached it it began to move away, so I snapped a few photos and went off in search of larger individuals. Young ones are active all year round but adults only in summer, and it was still a little too early.

As an illustration of how difficult these things are to find, I had demarcated the spot where I found mine by putting a stick in the ground near the path. I returned, unsuccessful in finding any more, and had to carefully search the bush for a couple of minutes before I was able to relocate it.

How do I get to Rota?

Rota is 35 minutes drive from Cadiz or 30 minutes by ferry from Terminal Maritima Cadiz – here’s a timetable from the official website. The ferry costs 5.20 EUR each way, and is replaced by a direct bus if conditions are too rough. You’re probably best off asking at the office. There are also local buses which take 45 minutes, but these stop at Rota’s main bus station which adds ten minutes walking time.

I came for the chameleons, but what is there to see in Cadiz?

Cadiz is a beautiful city to explore in its own right, as it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in western Europe. With landmarks such as a Roman amphitheatre, Napoleonic War-era cannons still planted on street corners and a seafront which doubled for Havana in a James Bond film, there’s plenty to see in this city. If you’ve got the time, I’d highly recommend Cadiz’s free walking tours – I’ve done these all over the world and I have to say, this was one of the best.

There are many hostels in the area and the old town does not take long to walk around, plus there are plenty of tapas restaurants and supermarkets.